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Accadde in Lucania nell’800,VOL tra biscotti ed erbe aromatiche di Italia Libera 18-02-2024 - 06:57 Link copiato #iubenda-cs-banner .iub_ts_bc:not(.iubenda-custom-content) *,#iubenda-cs-banner [class*=" iub"],#iubenda-cs-banner [class^=iub],.iubenda-tp-btn:not([data-tp-nostyle]){ 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background-color: #fff; border-radius: 0.5rem; box-shadow: 0 12px 24px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.12); font-family: sans-serif; content: 'Loading...'; display: flex !important; font-size: 13px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1; justify-content: center; min-height: 50px; text-transform: uppercase;}#speakup-player:empty{ display: block;} Tra Pisticci e Napoli, prende vita l’apprendistato di un giovane Nemorino lucano in un pastificio partenopeo. Come nell’opera di Donizetti, il nostro eroe supera il maestro, il suo Dulcamara che stavolta non è un ciarlatano. E, osservandolo, impara la sapiente miscelazione di erbe aromatiche e officinali. Prepara un elisir particolarissimo, dal gusto inconfondibile e se ne torna in un uno dei paesi-presepe della Basilicata. Dall’effervescenza partenopea impara anche l’arte di distinguersi e farsi notare. Per vendere meglio biscotti ed elisir, Pasquale Vena − questo, al secolo, il nome del nostro Nemorino lucano − chiede a un ritrattista di Bernalda di realizzargli un’etichetta particolare per il suo liquore da presentare all’Expo di Milano del 1906. Cosimo Sampietro disegnò cosi il marchio della “pacchiana”, facendo il ritratto di sua figlia con i costumi tradizionali di Pisticci. Un’icona conosciuta oggi in tutto il mondo ◆ Il racconto di ARTURO GUASTELLA► Che storia. Lui, un giovane Nemorino lucano, che al destino comune a tantissimi ragazzi del Sud, si ribella. E, invece di emigrare nelle Americhe insieme ai fratelli, li lascia andare e neppure si imbarca a Napoli − nel solito piroscafo che porta nell’Atlantico il suo carico dolente di emigranti oltre le Colonne d’Ercole −, fermandosi nella città partenopea. Qui, trova lavoro presso un pastificio-biscottificio, dove il proprietario, oltre che esperto di semole e farine, è anche un raffinato erborista e insegna al giovane l’arte della panificazione e della preparazione di squisiti biscotti, insieme alla sapiente miscelazione di erbe aromatiche e officinali, per preparare liquori dal gusto straordinario. In ogni caso, il giovane supera il maestro, il suo Dulcamara (che non è in questo caso, un ciarlatano) e prepara un elisir particolarissimo, dal gusto inconfondibile e particolarmente gradevole, e ritorna nella sua patria, Pisticci. Non a caso, il vostro malizioso cronista, ha parlato di un elisir. Non solo di lunga vita, ma anche in questo caso il nostro “Elisir” − rubacchiando a Gaetano Donizetti il titolo di una sua opera lirica − potrebbe essere anche un Elisir d’Amore. Già, perché a Pisticci, uno di quei paesi-presepi della Basilicata, che sembrano poter scivolare lentamente nello Ionio, c’è anche un’Adina, una bellissima ragazza, forse la più bella della zona, che aveva letteralmente stregato i cuori dei ragazzi di Pisticci e della vicina Bernalda, compreso quello, mi piace pensarlo, di Pasquale Vena, il nostro eroe. “Ah! te sola io vedo, io sento, giorno e notte, e in ogni oggetto: d’obliarti invano io tento, il tuo viso ho sculto in petto…”. Siamo alla fine dell’Ottocento del secolo scorso, e le dichiarazioni d’amore si facevano anche con le serenate. E perché, allora, non immaginare che il giovane erborista-pasticciere, di ritorno da Napoli, non cantasse questi versi dell’opera lirica di Donizetti alla sua bella? In ogni caso, Pasquale Vena, dopo aver aperto a Pisticci un biscottificio, portò con sé la fortunata formula di quell’elisir, che ora è l’Amaro Lucano, un marchio conosciuto e gustato in tutto il mondo. Sono quasi sicuro che molti di voi, al solo nominarlo, sentiranno ancora il suo inconfondibile gusto sul palato e conoscono benissimo la ragazza lucana la cui effige è stampata sulla bottiglia, con il costume tipico di Pisticci. Era, dunque, questa l’Adina del nostro Nemorino? Mi piace immaginare che sia così, anche perché , racconta Francesco, il pronipote avvocato del capostipite Pasquale (ma anch’egli parte attiva nell’azienda di famiglia), quella ragazza era conosciuta come la “Pacchiana”. Una ragazza che è diventata un’autentica leggenda e, comunque, un’icona straordinaria. Per qualcuno viveva a Terravecchia, il quartiere più antico di Pisticci, ma Francesco Vena ne fa una brevissima storia: «Pasquale Vena – racconta − si rivolse ad un ritrattista di Bernalda, Cosimo Sampietro, per la realizzazione di questa etichetta particolare».La Pacchiana doveva essere l’elemento principale in quanto doveva rappresentare il territorio e in particolare Pisticci all’Expo di Milano del 1906. L’artista chiese alla figlia di indossare l’abito tradizionale Pisticcese e le fece un ritratto. Attorno al ritratto fu costruita l’intera etichetta. L’abito era quello di una contadina, nubile, vestita per un giorno di festa. Queste informazioni si deducono dai colori e dal cestino che ha in mano la pacchiana. Il rosso della gonna era il colore delle ragazze nubili che, al contrario delle donne sposate, potevano indossare colori vivaci. L’azzurro del grembiule era riconducibile ad un giorno di festa ed infine, il cestino, indicava una raccolta a mano delle erbe officinali, lavoro che spettava alle giovani contadine.«Il termine “pacchiana” − racconta Francesco Vena − è in accezione negativa poiché furono le nobildonne ad etichettare così le contadine. La struttura dell’abito era la stessa, cambiavano i tessuti; pregiati per le nobildonne (velluto, seta) poveri per le contadine (lana, cotone, stoffe di riciclo). Da allora la pacchiana è sempre stata la protagonista sull’etichetta dell’amaro lucano, con i suoi simboli che richiamano momenti importanti della storia della nostra azienda. Le medaglie al merito ottenute durante le fiere; la licenza numero 1 per la vendita degli alcolici acquisita all’ufficio tecnico di Bari; lo stemma reale a richiamare il suo lavoro presso i reali e l’aquila, simbolo di fierezza e regalità, per diffondere il motto dell’azienda “Lavoro e onestà”. Nel 2011 sono state apportate leggere modifiche all’etichetta. La pacchiana, che guardava verso l’esterno, ora volge il suo sguardo verso l’interno, verso il mondo lucano e alcuni elementi sono stati rinnovati nei contorni e nei colori». Un pittore di Bernalda, dunque, il paese degli antenati del celebre regista Francis Ford Coppola e dell’attore, premio Oscar, Nicolas Cage, che sicuramente avranno centellinato con l’Amaro Lucano e che, altrettanto sicuramente, avranno ammirato l’effigie della bellissima contadina. Anche stavolta, la fantasia del vostro cronista non conosce briglie e perché, allora, non sperare nella regia di un film su una simile, bellissima, per quanto ipotetica, storia d’amore? Qui, in questa terra bellissima dove si è consumato il sogno industriale di un polo chimico a Pisticci, come a Ferrandina o a Salandra, e dove le donne, le ragazze che avevano indossato i camici bianchi e blu della fabbrica e del riscatto sociale, sono tornate a coprirsi con lo scialle nero della delusione. Eppure sono belle le “pacchiane” di Pisticci, di Bernalda o di Ferrandina. © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATASfoglia qui il magazine n. 42 (febbraio 2024), speciale “Massimo Scalia, il buon Maestro” di Italia Libera 18-02-2024 - 06:57 Link copiato Commenti Leggi la Netiquette
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