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Rigore e ironia per il piacere del vino e del cibo,Campanella come diritto per tutti di Italia Libera   21-07-2024 - 05:57 Link copiato #iubenda-cs-banner .iub_ts_bc:not(.iubenda-custom-content) *,#iubenda-cs-banner [class*=" iub"],#iubenda-cs-banner [class^=iub],.iubenda-tp-btn:not([data-tp-nostyle]){ 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background-color: #fff; border-radius: 0.5rem; box-shadow: 0 12px 24px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.12); font-family: sans-serif; content: 'Loading...'; display: flex !important; font-size: 13px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1; justify-content: center; min-height: 50px; text-transform: uppercase;}#speakup-player:empty{ display: block;} Sulle pagine del “Manifesto”, Bonilli aveva intuito che la ristorazione, il vino, il cibo, non erano solo cose per golosi ma una dimensione fondamentale della nostra cultura materiale. Un magma divertente e complesso che interessava la storia, l’economia e l’identità di tutto il Paese. La sua invenzione era nel narrare le mille esperienze enologiche e gastronomiche – italiane e internazionali – fatte da lui e dalla sua squadra, sempre in modo diretto e immediato, con parole semplici, con rigore ma senza tecnicismi, preferendo l’ironia agli inutili compiacimenti, fornendo quelle informazioni necessarie ma essenziali, su un piatto o una bottiglia, che ogni persona normale ha il piacere di possedere. Le riviste da lui fondate – “Gambero rosso” (dal nome dell’osteria di Pinocchio), “Vini d’Italia”, “Ristoranti d’Italia” e “Almanacco dei Golosi” – , ebbero un successo travolgente. Licenziato ingiustamente dalla holding e dalla casa editrice che aveva varato si spense per un infarto a 69 anni ◆ Il ricordo di ALFREDO T. ANTONAROS► Dieci anni fa moriva Stefano Bonilli. Giornalista de il Manifesto poi della Rai, è stato un uomo che ha dato un contributo straordinario e fondamentale alla cultura gastronomica italiana del secondo Novecento che, solo grazie alle sue invenzioni, ha potuto vivere uno dei suoi momenti più intensi e illuminati della storia di quegli anni. Se oggi il tema cucina vive in tivù e sui giornali l’irrefrenabile decomporsi nel déjà vu e una insostenibile ripetitiva bulimia, ben altra era la situazione quando Bonilli ha dato vita alle sue creature. Ha creato, nel 1986, la casa editrice Il Gambero Rosso e, nell’autunno 1987, la prima edizione della guida Vini d’Italia, destinata a riscrivere le regole della critica enologica, con i famosi Tre Bicchieri.La gastronomia e il vino erano temi che già Mario Soldati, Gino Veronelli, Orio Vergani e Gianni Brera avevano affrontato, ma sempre – loro malgrado – in modo elitario, per addetti ai lavori. La rivoluzione operata da Bonilli è stata nell’affrontare gli stessi argomenti ma con la volontà di far diventare il piacere del vino e del cibo (come già le ferie, le mostre d’arte, il teatro, la musica) un diritto che potesse appartenere a tutti. Una dimensione del welfare rivolta a migliorare la qualità della vita e il benessere di ciascuno. È questo che ha rivoluzionato in Italia il mondo della gastronomia. Anche perché tutto è accaduto all’interno di quel Manifesto, diretto da Rossana Rossanda, quotidiano orgogliosamente comunista, dove Bonilli aveva varato una piccola rubrica settimanale chiamata appunto Gambero Rosso (dal nome dell’osteria di Pinocchio). In quel giornale Bonilli si occupava di esteri, di economia, politica e terrorismo, ma era già stato convertito da tempo alla gastronomia dalle colazioni mattutine e dalle cene preparate da Mirella e Peppino Cantarelli, nell’omonima locanda a Samboseto di Busseto (Pr), e dai piatti realizzati, degli anni 70, dal Cavalier Penazzi e dalle sue sorelle, a Mordano, in Romagna, in un luogo leggendario, svanito da decenni, dedicato ai grandi sapori della tradizione. Bonilli aveva intuito in quelle stanze che la ristorazione, il vino, il cibo, non erano solo cose per golosi ma una dimensione fondamentale della nostra cultura materiale. Un magma divertente e complesso che interessava la storia, l’economia e l’identità di tutto il Paese.All’inizio degli anni Novanta il Gambero Rosso è diventato una casa editrice indipendente. La rivista – come la Guida dei Vini d’Italia (prima edizione 1988) – la Guida Ristoranti d’Italia (prima edizione 1991) e l’Almanacco dei Golosi, incontrano un successo travolgente. In Italia diventano i manuali imperdibili di una generazione di appassionati, di tutte le età, di migliaia di artigiani del gusto e di professionisti del settore. All’estero sono presto modelli da imitare. L’invenzione di Bonilli era nel narrare le mille esperienze enologiche e gastronomiche – italiane e internazionali – fatte da lui e della sua squadra, sempre in modo diretto e immediato, con parole semplici, con rigore ma senza tecnicismi, preferendo l’ironia agli inutili compiacimenti, fornendo soprattutto quelle informazioni necessarie ma essenziali, su un piatto o una bottiglia, che ogni persona normale ha il piacere di possedere.Bonilli ha fatto tutto questo da laico, da uomo curioso, sempre con molti più dubbi che certezze, con la determinazione a guardarsi attorno per scoprire ed esplorare, senza alcun compiacimento epicureo e senza malinconie per tradizioni e mondi scomparsi. Dal 1999 ha ideato e diretto uno dei primi e più creativi canali televisivi tematici di enogastronomia presenti nel panorama internazionale – Gambero Rosso Channel (forte delle sue esperienze a “Di tasca nostra”, “Mi manda Lubrano” e “Mi manda Rai3” di cui era autore), e ha progettato e realizzato la Città del Gusto (dodicimila metri quadrati accanto al Tevere, interamente dedicati all’enogastronomia, un centro visitato da appassionati provenienti da tutto il mondo). All’interno vi ha realizzato migliaia di eventi internazionali legati alle sue geniali intuizioni e vi ha affiancato l’Academy per la formazione di professionisti del settore.È stato un bravo giornalista, un fondamentale innovatore, un entusiasta gourmet, un geniale editore ma anche un ottimo maestro che ha insegnato il mestiere a decine di giovani cui ha lasciato in eredità soprattutto la sua inquietudine e la sua incontenibile curiosità. Uomo di straordinaria ironia ha sempre legato la sua carica visionaria a un sorriso simpatico e accattivante e ha unito il suo lavoro ad una continua indagine sulle nuove tendenze, le mode giovanili, le innovazioni tecnologiche e a quanto di più originale si muoveva nel campo dell’enogastronomia, fermamente convinto che il segreto del gusto fosse legato innanzitutto alla qualità delle materie prime, al rispetto della terra e alle mani dell’uomo.Iniziava le sue giornate leggendo molti quotidiani, sfogliando pubblicazioni e decine di giornali e periodici su qualsiasi argomento, in qualsiasi lingua, per fiutare da che parte stesse andando il mondo. I grandi quotidiani italiani invece, forse per alchimie di concorrenza editoriale, non ne hanno mai riconosciuto appieno il ruolo straordinario e l’importante innovazione delle sue invenzioni che gli hanno generato attorno, negli anni, decine di migliaia di estimatori, molti amici sinceri, ma anche l’invidia e gli appetiti di molti.Nel settembre 2008 Stefano Bonilli è stato improvvisamente licenziato, al culmine di una crisi della holding e della casa editrice che lui aveva fondato. Si è trattato di un’esperienza dolorosa e di un distacco traumatico che lo hanno profondamente segnato. Due anni più tardi, nel 2010, il tribunale di Roma ha condannato la nuova proprietà del Gambero Rosso a risarcirlo per l’ingiusto licenziamento. Bonilli è morto poco più tardi, a 69 anni, per un infarto, nella notte tra il 3 e il 4 agosto 2014. Inevitabile poi che, senza la sua geniale creatività, la sua competenza, la sua fantasiosa inventiva, la sua voglia di esplorare e di divertirsi, e senza il suo impegno a fare del gusto un diritto di tutti, niente di ciò che aveva ideato e creato potesse avere ancora il senso e il sapore di prima. © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA di Italia Libera   21-07-2024 - 05:57 Link copiato Commenti Leggi la Netiquette

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